Project PHARE: preserving the past to shed light on the future
What strategies may be deployed to conserve the genetic heritage of historical plots while adapting to climate change?
What strategies may be deployed to conserve the genetic heritage of historical plots while adapting to climate change?
In 2018, the Vineyard and R&D team at Domaines Barons de Rothschild Lafite initiated an extensive massal selection project. The initiative is called PHARE: Parcelle de l’Histoire génétique et de l’Adaptation au Réchauffement climatique (‘Plot of genetic heritage and adaptation to global warming’).
We met the project leaders, Jérémy Moulin (Head of Research & Development, Domaines de Pauillac) and Louis Caillard (Technical Director, Viticulture, Domaines de Pauillac).
Here they explain their approach to preparing for the future of their estates by using genetic material from the past.
Hello Louis, hello Jérémy! First things first, could you kindly explain the origin of the PHARE project?
LC: The concept of massal selection emerged during a discussion over what we refer to in our jargon as ‘plant material’, which is essentially the first component in our process. In 2018, we celebrated the 150th anniversary of Château Lafite Rothschild and, during a tasting session, we were given the unique chance to sample a Lafite 1868. At the time, we all believed it was too exquisite to disappear and that we must preserve these wines together with the original grape varieties. Investing in history is intrinsic to our identity. Today, in 2024, our agricultural endeavours provide the result of labourers from five decades before. So we know that our vineyards are constantly being renewed and our oldest plots, established before 1970, are becoming scarcer.
JM: To plant our vine plots, we must first select our renowned plant material, which entails two alternatives. There are either clones selected by experts—clonal selection—or the diverse genetics that already existed in our vineyards prior to the introduction of clones—massal selection. Although this may impose more demands on the estates, it was promptly concurred that massal selection would provide the most compelling answer, allowing us to preserve and proliferate the ancient genetics of our wine types while enhancing intra-parcel variety in our vineyards. Saskia gave us the green light (editor’s note: Saskia de Rothschild, who at the time had just been appointed Chairwoman of the Group, in 2017).
The PHARE initiative not only safeguarded our vineyards’ genetic legacy but also allowed us to identify grape types most capable of withstanding elevated heat and water scarcity. Certain foreign grape varieties from warmer regions are better suited, and we expect to minimise our interventions in the next 10, 15, or 20 years. Our selection of our adaptable grape varieties was not conducted haphazardly. We decided to draw on the expertise of the ISVV (Institut des Sciences de la Vigne et du Vin — Institute of Vine and Wine Sciences), which has a plot filled with foreign grape varieties and conducts extensive grading activities. We consulted them to see which grape types they believed yielded good outcomes.
What were the initial steps taken by the R&D department?
JM: First, the PHARE project is intended for the long term. We often look ahead several years, but in this case, this initiative is scheduled to span a total of fifteen years, stretching to around 2030–2035.
LC: The first phase, which I consider to be the most critical, included selecting the vines to be retained. The selection process took place in the Lafite vineyard, the oldest in the group, and a number of plots at Château Duhart-Milon. In practical terms, this involved assessing the vines individually over 44 hectares to identify those that met stringent standards. The vine must possess moderate strength, with an appropriate and balanced quantity of bunches on both sides and should exhibit no evident signs of viral infection. This was accomplished collaboratively with the assistance of Vincent Dupuch, our specialist consultant in massal selection. Picture our in-house R&D team, including three or four trainees and Vincent, meticulously examining each vine stock from every angle! We evaluated a total of 359,423 vines over 43.42 hectares. It took us 4 years, from 2018 to 2021, and ultimately, we only kept a small portion.
JM: The next phase involved sampling the wood from the selected vines for assessment to ascertain their optimal health. It is analogous to doing a blood test: we verify that all levels are within normal ranges, indicating the patient’s health status. Similarly, we successfully eradicated all vines exhibiting non-visible illnesses and further refined the selection procedure. Ultimately, we came up with 78 grapevine strains of Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet franc, Merlot and Petit Verdot, representing 0.03% of all the surveyed plots! Subsequently, we sent our proprietary strains, together with other adapted varieties, to a partner nursery for propagation.
And then the new plots were cultivated?
LC: A major milestone took place in May 2024, when we planted the behavioural plot to facilitate the comparison of all our chosen genomes. We had immense satisfaction in planting the vines we had meticulously selected over an extended period. All the vines were sown in a single plot inside the Lafite vineyard, to provide the best possible environment for our new arrivals.
JM: Now comes the time to be patient. The vines require approximately three years to start grape production. This takes us to 2027 for the first harvests. Ultimately,we will need around eight years to get any impartial judgments on the yields of the grapes. Due to the climatic variations encountered each year, it’s impossible to give a verdict based on the first year; so we await the next harvests to come. In short, it will take until the early 2030s—eight years from 2024—before we have concrete results. At that juncture, we will choose the genetic varieties we wish to use and incorporate these into the future vineyard plantings.
So, the project is far from complete! Nonetheless, we presume that you’ve already learned a few lessons?
LC: What I like about this project is that it sets us both short-term objectives—rigorous vine selection—and long-term objectives—adapting grape varieties to endure climate change. We have discussed this initiative internally, and all teams at DBR Lafite are aware of it. So far, many people have contributed, and there’s more to come. PHARE emphasises the significance of our invaluable legacy, both above and below ground, and the need to preserve our historical plots.
JM: I’m convinced that our efforts in massal selection provide substantial potential. It’s a huge undertaking that requires extensive field observation.Although we are not the first to adopt this approach, we deserve recognition for pioneering it. I’m confident that the variety we are cultivating will ensure success. If we limit ourselves to just a few strains, we won’t be able to adapt to the ongoing changes. This research has provided us the opportunity to conduct a thorough evaluation of a database including over 350,000 plants, analysing historical effectiveness to prepare for tomorrow.
What is the meaning of the PHARE acronym?
JM: Besides its significance, we like the allusion to the lighthouse! (Phare in French.)
LC: Yes, it’s quite easy to visualise and remember. And a lighthouse also serves as a metaphor for a stable structure with strong foundations that provides us with a clear direction for our journey.