A territory revealed: shining a light on Long Dai

In 2008, a bet was made in the Chinese valley of Qui Shan: was it possible to make an exceptional wine in a region known for its challenges? Olivier Trégoat, Technical Director at Domaines Baron de Rothschild Lafite, recounts this singular adventure, in which an inimitable blend of French tradition and Chinese technique has matured into what is today known as the Domaine de Long Dai. 

What made this human adventure so special from the start?

Long Dai’s debut was marked by fortuitous encounters and daily challenges that demanded a collaborative response. We started the project in 2005, with Gérard Colin, who had already been living in China for 25 years. Gérard’s quite a character. He was an oenologist from Saint Emilion, and at this point, he was basically Chinese! So he was our wine expert, and at the same time he was deeply rooted in the day-to-day life of the village. When we got there, he knew everybody — a real man of the terroir, if you will. Without him, he would never have been able to build such solid bonds with the local community. One of his great friends, Peng, who was a cook in the neighbouring village called Moulingo, where he lived, is now heading our team of winegrowers.

From the very beginning, we knew we needed to learn the region’s cultural codes. For example, the stone terraces that locals construct in order to prevent erosion are a lesson in adapting to the terrain. We took inspiration from their techniques when we were laying out our vines. There was a real curiosity on both sides. Mathieu Pilloton, our Vineyard Manager visited regularly to train local teams on pruning. But it was also more than just a question of method: it was a real moment of dialogue and of sharing.

At the start, things could get a little cartoonish. We were working with whatever we had. I remember that we didn’t even have a cellar yet! Our first barrels were made from plastic. It was all quite minimalist. And when we weren’t out amongst the vines, we were making other discoveries. Especially culinary ones. Our French taste buds had some very interesting encounters indeed! Eric Kohler, Technical Director at DBR Lafite, could say a thing or two about the kebabs—the ones they make at the roadside stalls, sometimes cooked on the ground itself—that we took a liking to! It was all part of the adventure, and it’s what makes the memories so precious.

What were the greatest challenges in Long Dai’s development?

We anticipated difficulties, but the reality was even more demanding. To start with, the climate was incredibly intense. Winters at -30°C, sweltering summers…the vines were put to the test. The soil and the weather made for a real jigsaw puzzle. The earth was full of granite and schist, sometimes even marble. In 2010, when we were selecting our varieties based on the soil and climate conditions we were working with, the Cabernet Sauvignon and the Cabernet Franc were the obvious choices. The Marselan, a cross between Grenache and Cabernet Sauvignon, was also well-adapted. Merlot, on the other hand, hates heat, so we progressively stopped planting it. Each plot was surveyed and optimised accordingly. 

Today, in 2024, we have over 550 terraces built into the vineyard. 

Here, I also can’t help but think about another obstacle — or rather an uninvited visitor — Ripe Rot. A fungus that attacks mature grapes and eats into your harvest. Since 2014, we’ve been working with researchers and engineers to get a better grip on its biology and to limit its impact on our vines. We haven’t beaten it yet, but we’re working on it. And then, there are the local authorities.

Yes, how did the relationship with local authorities influence the estate’s development? 

In China, things work a little differently than in France. No one is really a landowner, and we needed to establish a relationship of confidence with the local authorities. And that demanded patience. We couldn’t simply show up with our own ideas of how things ought to work and move forward with our plans. We needed to listen, understand what the locals expected of us, and construct something together. At first, we always had a party representative following us around wherever we went. 

But what made the biggest difference were the bonds we built with the local community from the village. Olivier Richaud, former General Director of Domaine de Long Dai, who was with us since 2012, was able to strengthen these relationships in ways that were quite profound. He was in permanent contact with the artisans who constructed our terraces, and with the local teams who were learning new wine growing methods.

When Juliette Couderc succeeded Olivier in 2018, she strengthened these ties even further. She’s learned Chinese and immersed herself in daily life here, whether by joining the local rugby team or competing in badminton tournaments. Her integration deepened the sense of shared purpose.

Can you tell us a bit about terraced cultivation and other local growing methods in Long Dai? 

When we arrived, the terraces were already here. The locals grew apple, peach and peanut trees there—no grapes. These crops were the result of generations of adaptation to the region’s difficult climate. It was incredible to see the extent to which conserving water and avoiding erosion was a priority, and one that contributed to the optimisation of each plot. The terraces allowed us more control over irrigation, especially during the monsoon season.

And since your first harvests in 2017, how has the wine’s bouquet developed?

This summer, we had the chance to taste all of our vintages from 2017 to 2021. And I was pleasantly surprised! The 2017 vintage holds up well and has really blossomed over time. I returned to France with a great deal of confidence in the future of the estate.’

And it doesn’t stop there. This year, we planted our first white varieties. We’ve also noticed that our wines deserve to take their time to age a little longer — our 2022 vintage will be the first example of this. It’s the start of a new chapter, and I can’t wait to embark on the next part of this adventure.

Any advice for people who are exploring lesser-known wine growing regions? 

It requires patience, observation, and a willingness to learn. The greatest challenges aren’t technical, but cultural.

It’s important to understand the local customs, to get to know the people who live there, and to learn how they work with the land. Never arrive like a conqueror on his horse. Local nature and local culture always have lessons in store.